Dermaplaning Explained: Real Benefits, Common Myths, and Who Should Skip This Facial Treatment

“Won’t it grow back darker and thicker?” If I had to name the single most common worry about dermaplaning, that would be it. It’s a fair concern, and the answer may surprise you. It also opens a larger conversation about what this quick, popular treatment really offers, and when it isn’t a good idea.

Here I’ll explain what dermaplaning is, its realistic benefits, the myths I hear most, and who should skip it.

What dermaplaning is

Dermaplaning uses a sterile, single-use surgical-style blade held at a shallow angle. The provider gently glides it across the skin in short strokes to remove two things:

• The buildup of dead skin cells on the surface
• Fine, soft facial hair, often called vellus hair or “peach fuzz”

It is painless for most people, takes around half an hour, and has little to no downtime. It’s often done on its own or as a step before a peel or facial. If you’re interested, ask at your visit how it might fit with our medical facials.

The real benefits

Dermaplaning is a surface treatment, and its benefits are surface-level ones:

1. Immediate smoothness and brightness. Removing dead cells reveals a fresher-looking layer.
2. Smoother makeup application. Foundation and powder sit more evenly without fuzz and flakes.
3. Better product feel. Serums and moisturizers spread more easily on freshly exfoliated skin.
4. A good prep step. When paired thoughtfully with a light chemical peel, it can help the peel apply more evenly.

What dermaplaning won’t do: remove deep wrinkles, fix acne scars, permanently remove hair, or tighten skin. For those goals, treatments like microneedling or laser hair removal may be more appropriate.

Myths I hear most often

Myth 1: Hair grows back thicker and darker

This one has been studied for nearly a century. Cutting hair at the surface doesn’t change the follicle, so it doesn’t change the thickness, color or rate of growth. What people notice is that a cut hair has a blunt tip instead of a tapered one, so regrowth can feel a bit stubbly for a short time. It is not actually thicker.

Myth 2: It’s just shaving

Both involve a blade, but the goal and technique differ. Professional dermaplaning is performed by trained staff with a precise angle and technique focused on exfoliation, with the skin prepped and cared for afterward.

Myth 3: Everyone should do it

Not so. For some skin types and conditions, dermaplaning can do more harm than good. More on that below.

Myth 4: At-home tools are the same thing

At-home facial razors can remove fuzz, but the risks of nicks, irritation and infection rise when technique or hygiene slips. If you do it at home, use a clean, new blade, light pressure, and skip any area with active breakouts.

Who should skip dermaplaning

I recommend avoiding dermaplaning, or talking with us first, if you have:

• Active inflammatory acne or cysts: the blade can spread bacteria and irritate lesions.
• Rosacea flares, eczema or psoriasis on the face: exfoliation can worsen redness and sensitivity.
• A cold sore or history of frequent cold sores: treatment can trigger an outbreak.
• Recent isotretinoin use or heavy retinoid use, which make skin fragile.
• A sunburn or very recent peel or laser.
• Coarse, dark facial hair driven by hormones: dermaplaning will remove it temporarily, but a medical evaluation, and possibly lab work, is a better first step.

Aftercare and how often to go

After dermaplaning, the skin is more sensitive to sun and strong actives. Use a gentle cleanser, a soothing moisturizer and broad-spectrum sunscreen, and pause retinoids and exfoliating acids for a couple of days. Most people repeat treatment every three to four weeks, which lines up roughly with skin turnover and hair regrowth.

Frequently asked questions

Does dermaplaning make hair grow back thicker?

No. Cutting hair at the surface doesn’t affect the follicle. Regrowth may feel stubbly briefly because the tip is blunt, but it isn’t thicker or darker.

Does dermaplaning hurt?

Most people feel only a light scraping sensation. It shouldn’t be painful, and there is usually no downtime.

Can I dermaplane if I have acne?

Not over active, inflamed breakouts. It can spread bacteria and irritate the skin. We usually treat the acne first.

How often should I get dermaplaning?

Every three to four weeks is common. More often can over-exfoliate the skin and cause irritation.

Book a complimentary consultation

Curious whether dermaplaning or another facial treatment fits your skin? Book a complimentary, no-commitment consultation and we’ll recommend the right approach.

• Hudson, OH: 50 W Streetsboro St, Suite 2 · (330) 460-5915
• Barboursville, WV: 1 Chateau Grove Ln · (304) 520-0461

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References: Trotter M. Hair growth and shaving. Anatomical Record. 1928. · American Academy of Dermatology. Hair removal: how to shave. aad.org · American Academy of Dermatology. Rosacea. aad.org

This article is for general information only and is not medical advice. Treatments are provided only after consultation and evaluation by a licensed provider. Individual results vary.